Momwe mungayamwe nsawawa: nkhondo yamsika wamsika wamsika

Kwa miyezi isanu ndi inayi yapitayi, asayansi ku malo opangira chakudya ku Lausanne omwe amapanga zazikulu kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi akhala akutanganidwa ndi njira yabwino yakumwa nsawawa.

Momwe akatswiri amapangira yankho lawo – kuphatikiza mapuloteni a mtola ndi madzi, ulusi wa chicory, shuga ndi mafuta a mpendadzuwa – adayamba nawo nkhondo yolimbirana. Ndi ake yambitsani sabata ino ya mkaka wa mtola wachikasu wa Wunda mtundu, Nestle idakhala gawo lolimbikitsana padziko lonse lapansi kuti isinthe ogula kuchokera mkaka wa ng’ombe wamowa kwazaka zambiri kukhala njira zina zopangira mbewu. Wopikisana naye, Mwaukhondo, yakula kuchokera pachiyambi mumzinda wa Malmö ku Sweden mpaka ku IP ikubweraO zitha kukhala zamtengo wapatali ngati $ 10bn.

Zilipo: alangizi amati kutsika kwa mpweya wowonjezera kutentha wochokera ku mkaka wazomera, poyerekeza ndi ng’ombe, kumatsogolera njira yatsopano, yopanda nyama yopezera chakudya ndi zakumwa zomwe zingathandize kudyetsa umunthu ndikuletsa kutentha kwanyengo.

“Cholinga chathu ndikusokoneza imodzi mwamakampani akulu kwambiri padziko lonse lapansi – mkaka – ndipo potero titsogolere njira yatsopano yopezera chakudya,” adalemba a Toni Petersson, wamkulu wa Oatly, pamalonda a kampaniyo asanafike pamndandanda womwe udakonzedwa ku Nasdaq.

Popanda chidwi, mkaka wopangidwa ndi mbewu wakhala msika wotsutsana kwambiri. Pafupifupi $ 17bn pachaka, malinga ndi gulu lofufuza la Euromonitor, akadali kachigawo kakang’ono chabe kamsika wamsika wapadziko lonse wa $ 650bn, koma zoyambira zambiri ndi mayiko ambiri akulu kwambiri akugulitsa zinthu zomwe zimasakaniza zaposachedwa mu sayansi yazakudya ndikusintha kwa zomwe makasitomala amakonda kuzinthu zomwe zimawoneka ngati zathanzi ndi zina zambiri zisathe.

Kufuna kwa mkaka wazomera kwadyetsa chikhalidwe chodyera. “Kusankha mtundu wa mkaka wopangidwa ndi mbewu ku Starbucks [now] ikuwoneka ngati njira yodzizindikiritsa, ”akutero Bruno Monteyne, katswiri pa Bernstein.

Kulowa kwa Nestlé pamsika kumachokera pakukhulupirira pakati pa mayiko osiyanasiyana kuti mkaka wazakudya ndizosintha, osati kutengera wamba. Wopanga yoghurt waku France Danone wapitilira mseuwo, Kugulitsa € 2.2bn yazakudya zamkaka zopangidwa kuchokera ku 2020.

Komabe mkaka wam’mera wadzala wayambitsa nkhondo yolimbana ndi magulu amkaka, omwe apititsa patsogolo ntchito zawo zokhazikika ndikuletsa ku EU kuyitanitsa zopatsa nyama “mkaka” kapena “yoghurt”. Amayi obzala mbewu, panthawiyi, akhala akuvutika kuti agwirizane ndi mkaka monga mapuloteni komanso ma amino acid ofunikira.

M’magulu ampikisano wambiri, opanga akukumana ndi zovuta m’mphepete mwa mayendedwe ndi njira zopewera zophatikizira, onse akugwira chidwi cha ogula omwe akutumiza zakudya zam’mbuyomu, monga zakudya zamafuta ochepa, m’mbiri.

Kumwa mowa

“Mkaka” wopangidwa ndi soyaan wakhala akupangidwa ku China kwazaka zambiri, pomwe mkaka wa amondi uli ndi mbiri yakale ku Middle East. Koma milk yazomera idafika misika yaku Europe ndi US pambuyo pake. Kuchulukitsa kuzindikira kwa kusagwirizana kwa lactose kudalimbikitsa kufunika kwa mkaka wa soya mzaka za m’ma 1970 ndi 80, mothandizidwa ndi mtundu watsopano wa ogula omwe amadziwa zaumoyo.

Kuchokera nthawi imeneyo, mkaka wobzala mbeu wakula kwambiri. Amayi omwe amafunafuna zakumwa zamasamba amatha kusankha pakati pa oats, cashews, coconut, hemp, nandolo, balere, mpunga, mbewu za chia ndi ena. Soya yakana kuda nkhawa ndi ziwengo ndi zomwe zathandizira pakuwononga mitengo. Koma mzaka khumi zapitazi kugulitsa mkaka wosakhala wa soya kwawonjezeka, ukukwera pafupifupi zisanu ndi zinayi m’misika yakumadzulo, kuphatikiza Western Europe, North America ndi Australasia, malinga ndi Euromonitor.

Izi zimachitika chifukwa cha ogula omwe amafunafuna kupewa mafuta ndi mafuta ambiri. Koma kugulitsa mkaka kochulukirachulukira kumayendetsedwa ndi nkhawa zopitilira momwe ogula adadziwira zambiri kusintha kwa nyengo. Ziweto zimatulutsa 14.5% ya mpweya wowonjezera kutentha, pomwe chakudya, mayendedwe ndi zinthu zina zimaganiziridwa, malinga ndi UN’s Food and Agriculture Organisation.

Greta Thunberg, womenyera ufulu wachinyamata waku Sweden, ndi m’modzi mwa omwe amalimbikitsa kuchepa kwa nyama ndi mkaka. Ngakhale ali ndi vegan, njira yayikulu yopindulira mkaka wopangidwa ndi mbewu wakhala akufuna kuchepetsa zopangira nyama ngakhale pakati pa omwe safuna kudya zakudya zolimba.

“Sikuti ndiomwe amadya zamasamba kwambiri kapena ndiwo zamasamba omwe atengera izi. Kukula mokulira ‘wosinthasintha‘m’deralo, “atero a Daniel Ordóñez, wamkulu pazoyang’anira mkaka ndi zitsamba ku Danone. Ananenanso kuti ukadaulo wopanga umapangitsa kuti zinthu zomwe zimapangidwa ndi mbewu zikhale zokoma, ndikuthandizira kukopa anthu ambiri.

John Foraker, yemwe ndi wazamalonda wazakudya zachilengedwe ku United States, anati: “Chilichonse chokhudzana ndi thanzi, mavuto azaumoyo, nkhani zachilengedwe komanso zochitika zachilengedwe zokhudzana ndi mkaka – zinthu zonsezi zimayendetsedwa bwino, zomwe zimapangitsa chidwi cha ogula m’magulu ambiri. Kumene mungapeze njira zina zopangira zomera pali chidwi. ”

‘Palibe chinthu chonga mkaka wazomera’

Kuchuluka kwa zofuna za ogula kwadzetsa kuchuluka kwa ndalama. Kugulitsa ndalama zamakampani opanga mkaka ndi mazira kudakwera $ 1.6bn chaka chatha kuchokera $ 64m mu 2015, malinga ndi kampani ya data Dealroom, ndi Califia Farms – kampani yopanga zakumwa ku US – ikukweza $ 170m ndi Oatly $ 200m. Kupatula magulu akulu azakudya ndi mkaka, malinga ndi PitchBook, pakadali pano pali makampani 124 oyimira okhawo padziko lonse lapansi.

Oatly anazindikira kuti mtundu wake ukhoza kukhazikitsidwa mwachangu m’misika yatsopano kudzera mumaubwenzi ndi malo omwera. Idalunjika m’malo ogulitsira khofi apamwamba ndi maunyolo ndi mtundu wake wa “barista”, womwe umafooka ngati mkaka wa mkaka. Khofi ndi “khomo lalikulu lolowera kuzakumwa zakumwa zopangira mbewu”, akutero Ordóñez.

Makampani akamapikisana nawo pamsika womwe ukukula akukulitsa zizindikilo zawo zanyengo. Lembani mwatsatanetsatane kapangidwe ka kaboni pachinthu chilichonse. Nestlé adalemba chiphaso cha Wunda kuchokera ku Carbon Trust.

Koma popeza kugulitsa mkaka wazomera kwachulukirachulukira, makampani amkaka ayamba kubwezera, ndi matchulidwe amilandu ndi milandu. “Palibe chinthu chonga mkaka wazomera. . . Amatchedwa zakumwa zamasamba. Zoterezi monga mkaka wazomera kulibe, ”akuumiriza Hanne Sondergaard, wamkulu wotsatsa ku kampani yogulitsa mkaka ku Danish Arla.

Ku EU, kusiyana kumeneku tsopano ndi lamulo. Chigamulo cha 2017 cha Khothi Lachilungamo ku Europe chinalepheretsa opanga zakudya zamasamba kuti asatchule “mkaka” kapena “yoghurt” yawo. Kulimbana kwina kwayambika pazowonjezera zomwe zithandizidwa ndi nyumba yamalamulo yaku Europe, zomwe – ngati atapeza thandizo pokambirana ndi Commission ndi mayiko mamembala mwezi uno – zitha kuletsa zinthu ngati izi kugwiritsa ntchito mapaketi omwe amadzaza mkaka, monga mapoto a yoghurt kapena makatoni amkaka.

Opanga mkaka obzala ndi omenyera nkhondo abwerera mmbuyo. “Kodi ndiwe wopusa? Malo olandirira mkaka akuganiza kuti ndinu, “adanyoza Oatly pamalonda otsatsa, akuimba EU mlandu” woletsa zakudya zopangidwa ndi mbewu “.

Pazakudya zabwino, makampani amkaka atha kukhala ndi mfundo. David Julian McClements, pulofesa wa sayansi ya chakudya ku Yunivesite ya Massachusetts, akuti kwa iwo omwe sagwirizana ndi lactose, mkaka “umakhala ndi thanzi labwino. Mkaka wapangidwira kudyetsa makanda – kwa mwana wang’ombe osati mwana wamwamuna, koma pali zochuluka pakati pa zomwe tili nazo mkaka wa m’mawere ndi mkaka wa ng’ombe. “

Vuto limodzi ndi mapuloteni. Mkaka wobzala umakhala wochepera mkaka: Oatly amakhala ndi 1g wa mapuloteni pa 100ml, motsutsana ndi 3g mkaka wa ng’ombe. Ndi mapuloteni 2.2g, kugwiritsa ntchito nandolo ndi kuyesa kubweza kusowaku. Kukula kwaukadaulo wazakudya kumabweretsa mankhwalawa pafupi ndi thanzi la mkaka, a McClements atero.

A María Mascaraque, oyang’anira mafakitale padziko lonse ku Euromonitor, akuti ogula ali ndi nkhawa “pazakudya zabwino komanso nkhawa kuti mankhwalawa amakonzedwa kwambiri poyerekeza ndi mkaka wa ng’ombe. Ngakhale atakhala kuti akhalabe bwino, padakali njira yayikulu yoti tichite kuti zochepetsera zinthu zizikhala zosavuta. ”

Kutengera kapena kusintha kwamapangidwe?

Ngakhale adatsutsa mkaka wopangidwa ndi zitsamba, Arla yemweyo adakhazikitsa mzere wa zakumwa zakumwa chaka chatha. “Titha kuwona kuti ndi gawo lomwe likukula. . . tikufuna kukhala mmenemo, ”akutero Sondergaard. Anatinso zakumwa zaudzu zikulandila magawo amsika ku mkaka ku UK, Denmark ndi Sweden, pomwe kuchuluka kwa mkaka wofunafuna mkaka kumachokera m’misika yomwe ikubwera kumene.

Lactalis, gulu lalikulu kwambiri la mkaka padziko lonse lapansi, idakhazikitsa ma yoghurt a vegan mu 2019. Danone idagula WhiteWave Foods yochokera ku US $ 12.5bn zaka ziwiri m’mbuyomu. Chaka chino idapeza mkaka wazomera komanso wopanga mayo Tsatirani Mtima Wanu.

Sondergaard akuti chifukwa chomwe ogula ngati mkaka wopangidwa ndi chomera “ndichatsopano – timabadwa otopa ngati ogula, ndipo tikufuna kumwa china chatsopano”.

Danone akubetcha kuti zinthuzo zimakhala ndi zochulukirapo kuposa zachilendo. Nestlé akuvomereza. A Cédric Boehm, oyang’anira mkaka ku Europe, Middle East komanso kumpoto kwa Africa ku Nestlé, akuti: “Dera lino lasintha. Panali, pafupifupi zaka 20 zapitazo, kutsika kwambiri kwa carb. Unilever yakhazikitsa zinthu. . . koma sichinali chamangidwe, chinali chizolowezi. Poterepa ndizomangamanga. Izi ndi zokongola kwambiri. ”

Pambuyo pakuchulukirachulukira kwamakampani, a Will Hayllar, omwe amayang’anira padziko lonse lapansi kwaopanga upangiri OC&C, akuneneratu za “kugwedezeka” pamsika. “Zomwe tikuwona pakadali pano ndi gawo laling’ono lokhala ndi malo ogwiritsira ntchito malonda, ndi malingaliro atsopano atsopano omwe akhazikitsidwa. . . Ambiri ndi okwera mtengo kwambiri kuposa amkaka amkaka [and] ndicho gawo lomwe likupangitsa kuti ntchitoyi ichitike.

“Mudzawona kugwedezeka pazaka zitatu kapena zinayi zikubwerazi,” akuwonjezera, “pomwe zingapo mwa zinthuzi sizikwaniritsidwa.”

Malonda oyambira pa mbiri yakunja angafunikire kusintha chizindikiritso chawo. Mwaukhondo yadzudzulidwa ndi mafani chifukwa chothandizidwa ndi mabungwe azachuma ku Blackstone ndi China Resources yaku China.

“Mwawonapo izi m’magawo momwe njira yina ikukulira. . . amakhala ndi zigawenga, zosokoneza zomwe zimawayika. . . imamvekanso kwa omwe adayamba kubadwa, ”akutero a Hayllar. “Akamakula amakulitsa malo awo okhala, ndiye lingaliro losakhazikika lomwe eni mabizinesi akuyesera kupanga.”

Mavuto omwe angakhalepo mtsogolo akuphatikizapo mkaka wopangidwa ndi labu: Kuyamba kwa US Tsiku Langwiro ikugwira ntchito yolemera yopanga mkaka wopanda nyama wopangidwa kuchokera ku digito ya DNA ya ng’ombe.

Katswiri wopanga ndalama muukadaulo waulimi akuti ma margins adzagwa mosalephera. “Zolepheretsa kulowa ndizochepa ndipo zimapikisana modabwitsa,” akutero. “[Rivals] apita kukasamalira maudindo akuluakulu a Oatly. ”

Koma ngakhale mkaka wazomera ungakhale wosapindulitsa kwenikweni, akatswiri amakhulupirira kuti ali ndi gawo limodzi pothana ndi kusintha kwa nyengo.

“Kuchokera pamawonekedwe okhazikika zimawoneka bwino kwambiri,” atero a Michael Clarke, wolemba nawo gawo lodziwika bwino la 2019 EAT-Lancet lipoti lazakudya zobiriwira. “Ndikuganiza kuti ndi imodzi mwazothetsera mavuto azachilengedwe omwe tikukumana nawo ndi chakudya.”